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Latest Blog Posts
 

Post - 21/09/2011   - Birch bark containers

I recently made these two Birch bark pots, they are stitched differently to the way I have previously made containers; this is now my new favourite method. As well as being very decorative, the 'stepped' stitching ensures that the bark doesn't split along its grain, which would be likely if so many stitching holes were made right next to each other along the same line. Making stitching holes through two layers of bark also helps the bark not to split.

The container on the right is made from the bark of a dead tree. When stripping the bark from the logs the wood inside had actually started to rot away but the skeleton of bark was still good to use, that's because of all the natural tar it contains. the smaller container is made from fresh bark I managed to salvage from some logs left behind by tree surgeons. This bark is such a nice material, its a shame so much of it just ends up on peoples fire heap!

Some of the crafts I make are quite intricate, so for a change I thought I'd show you how to make a simple little bark box like this...

Strip your bark from felled or naturally fallen trees. The only tools you need to make this little box are a pen knife, a ruler, and something to score lines with.

The folds are simply held together by two stick pegs inserted through slots in the bark.

   
  Start by cleaning up the outside of the bark. removing any loose material. Pulling your thumb over the bark side-ways works well. Now cut the bark into a neat rectangle.  
   
  Carefully score the folding lines onto the bark as represented by the diagram. I used a bradawl for this job.  
   
  Fold the corners up Make four small slots ready to receive the pegs which hold the folds securely in shape.  

 

   
  Cut two sticks to length and shave them down thin. If they are a bit flexible that will help with the fitting. Insert the pegs on either side... job done! How simple and effective is that!  

Also see my tutorial on how to make other simple birch bark containers/ pots.. click here
And my step by step guide to making a Birch bark basket  Here

 

Post - 19/09/2011   - Primitive Trapping

Trapping is only something you'd do if you needed to feed yourself, it should then be carried out with much care and respect. However, it can be fun to learn how to lay traps with no real intention of actually catching anything; that's what I've been practicing today.... I find it fascinating how a few carefully prepared sticks can be assembled with a snare to create a very effective trap. The trap here on the right is a type of Rabbit snare. Many types of trap utilize a toggle which is held in place by another stick; when the stick is dislodged the toggle is released and up goes the noose. A trap like this can surprisingly be set to an extremely fine tolerance.

Of course, tracking skills and good knowledge of your prey's behaviours will also mean the the difference between success and failure; or the difference between a humane and inhumane catch.


Click images to enlarge

 

In primitive situations when you are using a snare made from natural fibres, the animal needs to be lifted off the ground to prevent it from biting through the snare line (or its leg) and escaping. This is done by attaching the snare to a springy branch, when the animal sets off the trigger mechanism, the noose tightens around its neck and the tensioned branch lifts the animal upwards. This tension also prevents any chance of the noose loosening.

Placing sticks either side of the trap and the animal trail guides the animal into the snare opening. There are other things that need to be thought about too, such as trying to make your trap as inconspicuous as possible; masking your scent (usually by smoking your snare and parts over a fire); and making as little disturbance to the animals trail so that it will not become suspicious... animals are more clever than you'd think!

 

Another 'neck hold' trap. This is another example of a toggle based snare with the main line under tension. The central stick would be baited in the middle. She snare is held up with tiny 'Y' shaped sticks. It should be easy to see how this works.  


A simple 'Eye' made from a section of naturally hollow Elder wood helps the snare to slip freely along.

Please respect my wishes and only use these traps in survival situations. Never leave a practice trap set!

 

 

Post - 17/09/2011   - Harry Potter Elder Wand

I'm not actually a big Harry Potter fan but I made this wand with the intent of selling it  :-)  I thought it might be an interesting item to show and share. I carved it from genuine Elder wood with just a normal Bushcraft knife. The Elder wand is said to be the most powerful wand there can be. You'll think I'm mad but the finished wand strangely did feel quite powerful in the hand. I guess the power of intent is quite strong and maybe wands could be used to direct your intent. We've all heard about the power of the mind; people using their mental power to stay strong and overcoming illness is a good example.

The knobbly sections are burnt with hot irons heated in the camp fire.


 

Post - 14/09/2011   - A New Kuksa Cup Carved

I recently finished carving a new Kuksa cup from Sycamore wood. This is now my number one drinking vessel. I use it all day every day. Water tastes so much better these now...

Click here to see my kuksa carving tutorial.

 

Wicker Fish Trap

I have crafted this fish trap from Willow growing in the local fields. The construction is started like an average basket with a spoke layout, although far more spokes constantly need to be added in. A twine weave is used throughout the construction. On its own the willow structure would be quite flimsy so I have integrated several wooden hoops on the inside to give it rigidity, they are bound into place using Lime bark fibres.

I have been trying to use the trap in a lake, for bait I suspend bread and sardines in the centre of the basket structure. You can put the bait inside a sock to keep it all together. So far I have only caught 3 small Rudd but hoping for some bigger catches soon.

If you wish to have a go at basket making you can follow my inspirational guide here

 

Seed Gathering


 

Most recently I have been collecting as many types of edible seed as possible from the local fields and woodland, then working out how to process them to use as food. I started out with Collecting Soft Brome Grass seed, then Yorkshire Fog grass seed, Cocks Foot grass, Ribwort Plantain seeds and also Pendulous Sedge seed. As you can see below I have managed to collect quite a large quantity of the Soft Brome Grass seed. Using a coil basket made from sedges and badminton racket I was able to collect 16kg in just 3 and a half hours! Some of this seed was still a little green but I dried it off in the sun on a large cotton sheet.

Some types of seed are harder to process than others. With grass, each seed is encased in a husk which needs removing before the seed can be eaten or ground into flour. The brome seed first of all seemed impossible to de-husk efficiently, with most seeds you can parch them, rub them and then winnow the chaff away but this did not work with the Brome. The processes I worked out are far too in-depth to write about here so I may be writing an article on the subject soon.

I should mention that if you decide to collect grass seed to use as a food, you must research Black Ergot fungus first! This grows on some of the seed and if eaten it can potentially be fatal. It is to be taken seriously.

So far I can say that Pendulous sedge and Yorkshire fog have been the most successful seed I have gathered. Particularly the Yorkshire Fog seed which tastes like sesame once parched. Fantastic! Pendulous sedge doesn't suffer from the Ergot fungus so you'll be safe if you stick to this seed for now.

 

Sacks of Soft Brome seed and gathering equipment

 

Soft Brome seed (some still a little green)

 

 
 

Drying the seed on a sheet in the sun

 

Gathering method

 

 
 

Parching Yorkshire Fog seed ready for rubbing and winnowing

 

Example of Pendulous Sedge seed after parching, rubbing between hands and then winnowing

 

 

Grinding seed into flour using a Metate and Muller. Flour can now be used to make bush biscuits or added into bread etc.

 

   

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Contact me via Email: jon@jonsbushcraft.com

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